Oooooh-mami

Master and I had some tough conversations online both nights leading up to our Wednesday night dinner, so I expected the mood to be somewhat prickly. If there's a better way to melt tension than sharing a hot and hearty udon, I have yet to find it. I was inspired by several days of near-zero temperatures and, admittedly, by a hotpot recipe I'd seen prepared on Martha. A stroll through my favorite Asian market left me in possession of a beautiful kabocha squash, shiitake mushrooms both dried and fresh, and a package of konbu. I was so eager to start making some umami magic, I practically danced back home.

Thanks to Master's generosity, I now have at my disposal all the proper tools (including that indispensable large strainer) to make preparation relatively effortless - though I did have to borrow my roommate's cleaver to hack the enormous squash into more manageable quarters. I reserved one for the udon, one for another preparation TBA, and one each for my roommate and my brother. With a vegetable bounty like this, I just had to share the love.

In anticipation of the new stove arriving on Thursday - yay! - facilities at Master's were limited. I walked in to find the old unit pulled away from the wall, disconnected and turned at an unworkable angle, the sink cluttered with containers that had been hiding for years in the dusty cleft between range and wall. It was probably for the best that I'd opted for a heat-and-eat dinner. I'd done all the heavy lifting at home, allowing plenty of time for the dried shiitakes to reconstitute, and for the simmering broth to soften the kabocha, carapace-like rind and all, to mouthwatering fork-tenderness. The fresh wheat udon noodles needed more encouragement to cook than a ladle-full of the hot broth was able to provide. So I added them to the pot and brought the works back up to temperature on the electric burner. That thing has been a godsend.

I suspected that both udon and kabocha would be new to Master, and I was not mistaken. I can't imagine a better introduction. The sweetness of the kabocha was really accentuated by the complex savoriness of the broth. I don't know if he loved the dried shiitakes, whose extreme chewiness can make for tricky eating. But Master and I were absolutely in agreement that the udon was not only delicious but also surprisingly filling. One bowl each was enough to put us in much improved moods as we retired to watch TV.

Shiitake and Kabocha Udon

1 Qt stock (chicken or vegetable)
1 Qt liquid reserved from reconstituted shiitake mushrooms, strained
1 piece konbu, cut into 2" pieces
2" ginger, cut into 1/4" slices and bruised with a heavy knife
2 t sugar
1/3 C mirin
1/3 C soy sauce
1/4 kabocha squash, washed well, seeded, and cut into 2" chunks
2 carrots, cut into 1" chunks on a bias
5-6 fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced
6-8 dried shiitake mushrooms
2 scallions, sliced on a bias
2 small packages of fresh udon noodles

In a large bowl, pour a quantity (at least 4 C) of hot water over dried shiitake mushrooms and let soak for several hours. Reserve liquid and strain. Remove woody stems and slice mushrooms in half on a bias.

Combine stock and mushroom liquid with konbu, ginger, sugar, mirin and soy sauce. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove konbu and ginger.

Add vegetables and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes. When ready to serve, add udon noodles and simmer to desired tenderness.