Kofta-esque

As my confidence grows, so does my ambition. Master's Wednesday-night dinner was a more elaborate affair, featuring several sides and a dessert, and requiring a good three hours of preparation.

The menu was lamb kofta, Moroccan carrot salad, couscous with pistachios and orange blossom water, and poached Asian pear over lemon sorbetto. The inspiration came from my dear friend Raj, a fabulous cook in whose kitchen(s), and at whose patient hands, I learned much of what I know. Whenever we cooked together, I sat to the side and dutifully scribbled notes in a small Moleskine notebook that has become my Bible. Even as spattering oils and drizzled condiments have rendered portions of many pages illegible, this gustatory grimoire remains my one constant kitchen companion. Time and trial have modified the particulars of these recipes somewhat. For one thing, his bordering-on-inhuman tolerance for the heat of chillies - and for the persistent pungency of asafoetida - are feats I could never hope to match. So, while amounts and ingredients may have been adjusted to my tastes, he still deserves credit for this well, one to which I return for many of my meals, always with the deepest gratitude and a twinge of bittersweet nostalgia.

Raj's lamb kofta were little nuggets of perfection, studded with bits of dried apricot, minced onion and cilantro. I omit the fruit, saute my onions and garlic in ghee, substitute fresh mint for half of the cilantro, and add citrus zest, pomegranate molasses, and a cup of plain breadcrumbs. I've found these changes to yield larger kofta that stay moist as they bake and offer a tantalizing rush of flavors with every forkful - so much flavor that a dollop of plain Greek, Indian or Turkish yogurt suffices as an accompaniment, though an actual raita would also be lovely.

Master told me that he'd never knowingly eaten lamb before. I know as many people who dislike lamb vehemently as I do lamb lovers, so I wasn't certain where on the spectrum he would fall. But his rural Pennsylvania-bred palate, to which many of the Mediterranean flavors I offered were new and unfamiliar, seemed to savor every element of the meal. I watched him happily devour several manly portions last night, and the leftovers for lunch this afternoon. That's one more for Team Lamb, then.

LAMB KOFTA
1 lb chopped lamb
1 red onion, minced
1 large clove garlic, grated or finely minced
1 T ghee
1/2 t coriander seed
1/2 t cumin seed
1/2 T black peppercorns
5-6 cardamom, decorticated and crushed
(1/2 t cayenne pepper, optional)
(1 t garam masala, optional)
1 large egg
1/4 cup fine, unseasoned breadcrumbs
1/2 cup fresh cilantro (leaves and stems), coarsely chopped
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped
zest of half an orange and/or half a lemon
1 T pomegranate molasses

Toast coriander and cumin in a dry pan until seeds are browned and fragrant. Grind finely together with peppercorns. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 350°.

Melt ghee in a large pan and saute onion. When onions have softened, and 1 generous tsp of the spice mixture and a handful of sea salt. Stir well and continue cooking for a few more minutes.

In a large bowl, combine the ground lamb, cooked onions, egg, cilantro, mint, (cayenne and garm masala), citrus zest, pomegranate molasses, bread crumbs and cardamom. Mix well with clean hands, incorporating all ingredients. The mixture shouldn't be too sticky or loose. If it is, add more breadcrumbs. Shape mixture into tapered balls and place on greased foil-covered tray. You should be able to get 10 good-sized kofta from 1 lb of meat.

Bake uncovered. Check for desired doneness after 30min. Serve hot.



The carrot salad is a fairly traditional rendition of a preparation that I've enjoyed at the homes of my Mom's many Moroccan friends. For Master's sake, I left out the cayenne, as I do when making this for family gatherings. The results are still delectable, though I miss the inimitable zing that only a dash of red pepper can provide. I continue to revel in the bounty of inexpensive Meyer lemons here, though the regular variety will serve just as nicely.

MOROCCAN CARROT SALAD
8-10 carrots, peeled and cut into large coins
1 garlic clove, grated
2 T good olive oil
1 T honey
1/2 tsp cumin seed, toasted and ground
1/2 tsp coriander, toasted and ground (or, if you can, use the spice mixture prepared above)
1/4 tsp paprika
(1/4 tsp cayenne pepper, optional)
1/5 cinnamon stick, grated
juice and zest of 1 Meyer lemon

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add carrots and 1 tbs sugar. Cook until carrots are just soft. Drain carrots and set aside.

Combine all other ingredients and mix well. A small fork works best. Pour over carrots and chill until ready to serve. The longer this chills, the better it tastes!


The Couscous with Pistachios is simplicity itself. Prepare a box of couscous using equal portions of stock (vegetable, beef, or even clear apple juice) and water. While the couscous is steaming, shell a few fistfuls of salted, roasted pistachios. Crush these with a mortar and pestle or grind coarsely. Add to couscous, along with orange zest, the juice of half a lemon, a good drizzle of olive oil, salt and fresh mint. Mix well with a fork - essential to fluff up the couscous. Garnish with a few whole pistachios and mint sprigs, and serve hot. If you can sprinkle a little orange-blossom water over the top before serving, by all means do so! Another indispensable tip from Raj, who bought me my first bottle of this balmy nectar.


Asian pears can be fibrous and a little bland, but the poaching liquid - a thin simple syrup spiked with star anise, cinnamon, cloves, black peppercorns, cardamom, citrus zest, and fresh ginger - permeated and softened the pear pieces. Spooned over an airy lemon sorbetto (purchased, not prepared), it was a light and satisfying dessert - just the way I like 'em. I'm always trying to sneak fruit into our meals, as dinner feels incomplete without it. Master, whose much more of a cookies-and-pie guy, had no complaints. I'll call this one, cribbed from a Korean cookbook whose title and author elude me, a qualified success. The overall flavor was missing... something. I may try adding a vanilla bean to the bubbling brew next time.